Items Wanted

The above example of what a typical reverse kit looks like for other models/brands of snowmobiles. I have never seen any photos of what the Yamaha Vmax 540 reverse kit looks like but would imagine it looks somewhat similar either with a linkage or cable system. No-one I have ever spoke to actually saw a Vmax 500 or 540 reverse kit. No one hads ever seen a SRX 440 1981 reverse kit that I have ever talked to. It was a factory option available in one particular year. I read it myself looking through service manuals and manuals. I know it was available as an option. It was not a big seller and I'm hoping one person has one still left in the world. It is my hunch that the reverse kit would have added $500 approx to the price tag of the sled. These sleds were the fastest factory stock sled ever made at that point in time. It was considered a lake racer. A reverse kit would have added a couple of pounds to the weight. I hope to find this kit with or without a sled attached to it.

The above photo is not a photo of the Vmax 500 / Vmax 540 / SRX 440 reverse kit. It is a photo of a typical reverse kit - just so you know what I'm talking about) The reverse kit I'm looking for may look different- I never saw one and there are no photos of it anywhere.

Look at all of the "Impossible-to-find" items on this page I have already found.

This is a photo of the Ampex AVR-2 in console configuration 600lbs weight approx. See it has the same of similar 3 modules mounted in the cart. Ampex AVR-2 was popular in mobile camera trucks for news and reporter applications. 1974 approx model.

This is a photo of the Ampex AVR-2 in tabletop configuration 200lbs approx weight for  each module = 600lbs approx weight total. See it has the same of similar 3 modules except without the cart. Ampex AVR-2 was popular in mobile camera trucks for news and reporter applications. 1974 approx model.

Ampex High Band 2" Video Recording tape model 148 12.5" diameter reel. This tape fared better than those in a dumpster. The content is savable. Many reels have deteriorated foam liners. The adhesive which binds the foam to the inside of the reel is a gooey sap-like sticky liquid which contaminates the spool of tape on many but not all 2" reels. The use of foam liner in so many things like cameras and Video recorders and cassette tapes/8-tracks was such a bad idea. The mfgs back then didn't realize foam has a short lifespan. Foam crumbles and adhesive rots and oozes out or dries up or other destructive process. Before old tapes can be played- they must be inspected and cleaned of foam particles and sticky residues.

I personally have cleaned a videotape lost in a lake (8mm camcorder tape which I charged the customer $42 in 2010 to restore. Only 12 seconds of content could not be restored as there was a crusty lake crystalization of substance etc which ate away part of the tape leaving that portion ruined. The remaining 2 hours of video was cleaned carefully and transferred perfect. My ebay feedback was (was for a 8mm camcorder tape not a 2" quad)

	Great	Member id fesippsiii ( Feedback Score Of 121)	Oct-27-10 19:15
	8mm Camcorder Tape Clean & Restore (Dropped in Lake) (#160493827788)	US $42.00	View Item

I would like to find a Quaruplex 2" Quad VTR Video recorder. Will consider any make or model. I have been researching the various models which were made from 1950- through 1980s 

Ampex AVR-2

Ampex AVR-2 seems like the smallest full feature color model and is Hi-band only record and play (super hi-band and Low band was an optional upgrade) A big plus is AVR-2 operates on 115 volts AC normal power for USA. I believe the AVR-2 may be the best choice for my small film/video transfer business. My understanding is that plug in cards determine the Low/High/SuperHigh band recording and playback capabilities - almost impossible to find rare cards so for all practical purposes is Hi-band only.

Other full size 2" Quad Machines

I have seen a few pictures of other brands/models such as Ampex, Merlin Engineering, Fernseh, Toshiba and RCA and more which seem like excellent choices also. Several other full size units can handle multi formats such as low band, high band, and super high-band. The downsize is sheer size and weight and some are not solid state and need daily tedious calibration. The plus side is able to handle various formats and really and truly size and weight would be the same as having multiple smaller machines - just to handle all of the formats. For their size they really were very versatile. Another downside is power requirements 220v 3-phase is something many industrial businesses have to run machinery. I would need to get a 3-phase converter if I find a big quadruplex. Most quadruplex machines ran on Hi-band. A few very old units which ran on Vacuum tubes were B&W only Low-band.

My hunch- most content from TV stations and reporters as early as 1964 approx to 1970s and 1980s was Hi-band format. An approx 15 year span.

My hunch is that 2" Reels from 1957 to 1967 were of various formats. The dominant being Low-band B&W or Low Band Color (color broadcasts were special events - color tv owners had mostly B&W broadcasts to watch).

Portable Quadruplex 2"

The Ampex VR3000 or VR3000 are Hi-band and Low band and would fit my video transfer business needs.

RCA TPR-10 is Hi-band only and would fit my video transfer business needs.

Any make of model of Quadruplex 2" VTR would be appreciated. Will consider any voltage or phase requirements if the price is right.

As an experienced pro electronics technician and former electronics college instructor I can fix most electronic items with or without schematic. My ability to create parts from scratch in my workshop using scratch-built machines means I can make my own replacement parts as often is needed on discontinued items. So even parts of pieces of a machine or a disassembled VTR would be considered.

Low band = B&W only

High band = Color/B&W (400 lines resolution approx)

Super Hi Band = Color/B&W with pilot tone

VTR= Video Tape Recorder

Let me know if you have a 2" quadruplex machine in any make/brand or model any format color or black & white for sale or giveaway. Any condition even fixer upper or junk appreciated. Willing to rebuild. Located in NW Illinois and willing to drive to pickup or have truck shipped. Don't scrap it. Too few machines still around. Many businesses which call themselves "museums" online part out their machines or sell them or trade them etc. This further destroys the few remaining units for profit. My goal is to obtain one and fix if needed and use it for transfering the remaining 2" quadruplex video tapes still in existance. Many TV stations and more scrapped their equipment and tapes. Some fortunate reels are on the shelves at TV stations, collector's homes, universities etc in pristine condition.  I would like to perform transfers to DVD or Blu-ray when I find a Quadruplex machine of my own to restore/use.

Dr Virago Pete (847) 201-1612

drviragopete@att.net

I am updating this section as I have had a few conversations by email and phone calls

A caller phoned to let me know he has 2 Ampex VR3000 units and wasn't sure if he wanted to sell. Just a month prior I saw a PAL version on "big auction site" (nameless) and it looked and was described as rusty and found in a dumster as the new boss of that TV station went on a rampage throwing out equipment- that was the description of that PAL unit for sale. The bids started at $100 for a while then $200 and ended up at $600 approx. Since that was in another country- the ending bid was in their monetary system but on my screen in USA was approx $600. I mentioned this to the caller and said really that one was worth getting for parts and also because it had a PAL board which is swappable. I just didn't have spare money at that time. THe caller didn't have a price and wasn't sure if he wanted to sell. But I did aski him about some details. I asked about the "confidence mode" and how I had read it was a jerky unstable B&W picture. He said no it is a stable solid picture. I bet that although it is B&W the picture is good and clear and sharp enough to DVD record. The instability of the picture was a fact in many documents and websites etc. But it turns out that is false bit of information. I was expecting the caller to say yes it is a shakey jerky jittering picture with tearing etc. See that wasn't the case. He mentioned that the machine only plays small reels- but I said that external reel holders can be made for larger reels. I have not purchased a 2" Quad and am still hoping to find one.

Updated 7/2011

NoteBook Brand Motherboard Wanted or laptop for parts

I have a "Notebook" brand PC also known as Sager or Alienware or Prostar or Clevo.
"Notebook" is a difficult brand name to look up on search engines. "Sager" "Clevo" "Alienware" and "Prostar" are excellent words to look up on search engines. "Notebook" is too generic a word and pulls up too many unrelated topics. All of these company names have an identical laptop except for the colors of the case or name plates or a sticker underneath identify it for their own brand. One of my "Notebook" laptops has the word "Sager" on its underside on a sticker but is otherwise identical on circuitboards and dimensions etc.

"Notebook" brand model 5600P It is a Pentium4 Notebook with a 1.6 or 1.7 GHZ approx processor and CDRW/DVDROM combo drive and floppy disk built-in. I have purchased 2 of these and have gotten one to work but the other one is in need of a motherboard replacement. I am looking for either a used working motherboard 71-56P00-D03 (It could also be 71-56Poo-Do3 as I'm not sure whether it is a zero or letter O).

I have attempted to revive the bad motherboard with a heatgun unsuccessfully. I get some response from the LED lights when powering up/down but no boot and black screen without any display. The LCD panel and buttons operate the CD drive to play a music CD fine. The computer portion does not function.

I have an identical working laptop and was able to swap out all memory chips, BIOS chip, drives, etc and found them to all be in working condition. The motherboard is bad. The root cause is a metal plate which was supposed to be a heatsink - was bent up and not resting on two chips. I'm sure those chips are cooked.

Someone with a laptop with a broken screen or a good motherboard for sale would be appreciated for 5600P as I could use your parts.

I have put a red arrow showing where the metal plate was not touching two chips underneath which is ultimately what I see as the cause of the motherboard going bad. This very same aluminum plate has a "nut" which is soldered to hold the aluminum plate in place- one of the nuts became unsoldered

I inhereted these problems and bought the laptops as parts units fixer-uppers as-is.

Problems with this design

1. Nut became unsoldered and thus the metal plate lost contact with the chips

2. Metal plate had a slight curl which gave one chip full contact while the other chip had little or no contact. I made a slice in this metal plate with a hand nibbler- curled the aluminum slightly to give contact with the two chips. The slice gives it an independent "springness" I feel that if there is a defect with this very well made laptop - the thing it needed was a slice which I made with a nibbler. Otherwise it is a very well made laptop. I would like to find a replacement motherboard or parts unit so I can have another of this very good laptop for my slide scanning and photo scanning business.

This laptop design has a high quantity of cooling fans and heatsinks and vents which I like alot.

Dr Virago Pete (847) 201-1612

drviragopete@att.net

Powell Cinema Movie Film Processing Tanks for Super8, Regular8, 8mm, double8, 16mm (several styles made)

Superior Film Company Film Processing Tanks for Super8, Regular8, 8mm, Double8, 16mm (several styles made)

From what I have seen in pictures etc- I believe that the Powell tank and the Superior Film Company tanks are identical except for the name. There were several models made some for each size film and plus several ft capacity for each style. I personally own a 30ft and a 50ft- I would like to acquire more tank units- for higher volume processing.

I have purchased 2 of these units by scouring the "big online auction site" (no names) and one of my processing tanks came from Spain and the other one came from Ukraine (the label on each tank says it was made here in Illinois). One of the spiral reels inside my tank came mangled by the previous owner and is warped and looks like someone tried to straighten it by putting it on a hot surface or possibly a flame which severely damaged the underside of the spiral reel. Also the small protrusion at the center which holds the reel in place looks like it broke off and they glued it back on. It seems that only junk is being sold on that big auction site sometimes. Due to the rarity of this item I didn't complain or say a word about it. I paid $125 for just one and am still glad to have found them.

During July 11-14, 2011 we (many thousands of NW Illinois residents) had no power for 4-1/2 days. It was a very hot few days 85-95 degrees. My shop and things I sell depend on my use of electrical tools and equipment. Besides clearing fallen trees (some people were unlucky and had severe damage to cars and houses - 75mph winds) and cleaning out my refrigerator etc from food that wouldn't keep- I spent my time using a small 300w power inverter and a deep charge boat battery running the occasional things like  small fan- (1 hour of use of this fan over 4-1/2 days - careful only to deplete battery power minimally) and I also spent my time experiementing with my "Superior Film Company" 50ft tank which has a warped and deformed spiral reel. (I powered a small digital scale from US Post Office to mix my chemistry etc with my 300w inverter and boat battery)

Previous months I had collected ingredients for making my own processing chemicals, vintage sealed Super8 Cartridges of film I had shot a week earlier, and misc supplies. I wasted 1 Super8 cartridge in my experiments as I used several online formulas which I feel were severely incorrect. Since I have a warped spiral reel- in the darkbag/changing bag I loaded my film and it would snag or bind at about 15ft- I loaded film in sections. The very last section of film from that first cartridge worked as I adjusted the formula and time and the weather cooled for a few hours to 77degrees. I did get a very very faint image for approx 3 frames. It took 2 days of work at that point, and I'm glad to have found those 3 faint frames. The next cartridge I adjusted my chemistry further and with the practice of loading the film and snagging inside the changing bag- I had quite a bit of practice by then- the second cartridge worked much better and easier as 90% of frames were clear and visible and useable.

This proved to me that my own concoction of ingredients worked for B&W negative film processing of Kodak Ektachrome 160 Type G film. 45minutes of developing time and 6minutes of fixer at 77degrees F with no agitation. The first cartridge - much of it was lost due to over-agitation as the emulsion is very delicate and comes off. The websites which show processing of Super8 in all kinds of ways- I didn't have any success doing it their way- it is my opinion that their information is bogus. I tried many ways in that 4-1/2 days of nothing but processing film. I feel comfortable with the tanks from the 1960s and it works wonderful with my self-made developer ingredients. I love it.

The layer of black carbon (I believe it is an "antihalation layer") was a tough challenge as it is on one side of the film. I also figured out how to remove it without damaging the film image or emulsion. Severe weather really was a blessing in disguise as it freed up my time to dedicate to this project which I may not have had the time to tackle otherwise. The black layer can leave "soot" all over your film which potentially can get encapsulated in the emulsion as it is gelatin - if you do things wrong. The carbon is like photocopier machine toner or laser toner except non-magnetic. Potentially very messy- but I got it down/got the hang of it on that second cartridge- and no big deal from then on. Doing it right isn't messy at all and leaves no debris in the developer or fixer.

When the power came back on - I waited 1/2 day to make sure power was stable so I don't ruin my Kodak Supermatic VP-1 Film Videoplayer. I tested the film I had successfully processed and dried and spliced together and loaded onto a standard 3" "Technicolor" brand white reel with blue cap - it became a good useable image with color correction (it is B&W not color so don't misunderstand - this is B&W processing of color film) and using the "inverse" function of my Sony color correction box to make the negative image into a positive video image.

So far I have 1ea Superior Film Company 30ft tank which is for Double8 and I have no film slitter (if you have a film slitter for sale let me know) I have not used this tank yet but it even came with instructions and is in excellent A-1 condition.

I also have 1ea Superior Film Company 50ft tank which is for Super8 and has the warped/damage as indicated above.

I would like to acquire several of each tank type- the reason is to process multiple reels simultaneously. In my experiments- each processing of a 15ft test section required a full cleaning and drying afterwards. The drying is best left all day. There are always a few drops of water from cleaning it left and it needs total drying for next use.

I also saw photos and videos of other people trying to demonstrate developing film and they show the film coming out of their machine (big online video site) and the film comes out with images and looks done/ready-to-go right out of the machine - no that can't be. I say this from experience- the film has a milky white dense appearance- when you hang it up to dry- the wet film is actually puffed up. As it dries and it doesn't take long to dry - 1/2 hour approx- the puffed up areas shrink and the milky white turns clear - similar to "White School Glue" which goes on white but dries clear.

The first areas to shrink is the film edges where the sprocket holes are and the other side which is flat. Middle of the film is still puffed up and shrinks last. I remember thinking that it looks like a ravioli from a cross- section view. Puffing up is not drastic- maybe the thickness of the film itself. Also the sprocket holes cause that "ravioli" style drying to zig-zag around the sprocket holes like a sawblade.

I didn't see any mention of that or demonstration of the milkiness in ANY website or ANY description. Also the smells of the chemistry is described as a strong horrible or limberger cheese-like or like garbage that hasn't been taken out. FALSE - words from fakers.  My opinion is there is many videos and articles from fakers who really don't know how to process Super8 film using non-toxic ingredients. Also some people who were on the right track but their videos have severe mistakes in them- show mixing portions of the homemade chemicals in one container then portions in another container and then later combining them- sheesh- how many containers did you soil- and then later have to clean? I used 1 container and my proportions were different and some ingredients were different. I grade those presentions an "F" as trying to follow "fakers"/bogus leads got me no film images whatsover. (times/temps/ingredient portions/ingredients/descriptions/steps/etc wrong)

One more proof of bugus online videos/sites- the developer stains the film brown/tan and makes a B&W negative discarding the color layers. When film transferred to DVD and color correction box "inverse" the image making it positive. Inverse of Brown/Tan is Blue. Those sites and videos show snapshots of negative scanned- if inversed in Photoshop software it would be blue or a shade of blue- not brown/red. If you made a B&W print of the negative it would be pure B&W and no color at all. If it was a color paper - the image would be a shade of blue. If the paper was processed in the very same chemicals- it would dye the paper brown- that is the only scenario in which a positive image would be brown/red- based on what they had presented but no mention of paper processed in brown chemicals. See what I mean- bogus information. I know because I spent ALOT of time all day each day working on this.

While they may have truly gotten results- trying to follow their information as presented was not possible as their steps and descriptions did not portray a working method. The "faker" is for all of the fakeness in showing already processed film- department store processed film and sayingthat it was done themselves and more. Using soap on department store developed films- fakers.

I used no soap. I used no agitation. I used a different proportion of some ingredients and some ingredients were bogus and were substituted for ones that work. You did it in 8 minutes? Bogus. Loading film on a reel means squat in daylight- do it in the dark. They show loading reels in daylight, department store films with no brown stain, soap suds squeegeed between fingers ... WTF Their concentrating on is details (not even required) and the actual film process is shown wrong. One comment from a user on the "8-minuter"'s video states that a part of his tank is shown upside down- good point.

The basic premise is true that you can process film World War II style with basic ingredients. The basic premise that you can process ANY film as a black and white negative image is True for Kodak Ektachrome Type G 160. I can't attest to other films types as I have not tried them.

I know how now.

Some good things came out of this - I tested my large film changing bag thoroughly as I repaired unraveling seams with "plastidip" repeated painting on in layers and painstakingly repaired all seams. I bought this from "big online auction" (no names) as brand new unused. I also had experience cracking open a cartridge within the changing bag with a needle nose plier as the vintage film is brittle and tore leaving some film within- I carefully cracked it open within the bag saving the film and also proviing my changing bag coated in plastidip (what you dip pliers in to form the rubber-like handle grips- sold at Ace Hardware) could withstand sharp edges.

I learned not to turn the spiral reel inside the tank at all during the processing. No tapping or stomping to get the "air bubbles" which these fakers were all too concerned about. What air bubbles? There was none. Maybe they used carbonated water? Club soda? My emulsion was very very fragile- any turning or winding would rub the film together and when done processing- would all be in the tank like leaves. When wet - film doesn't slide inside the grooves of the spiral reel - it peels it right off. It is a bad idea to agitate. The turning of the spiral is only when the film is dry and no liquids poured in- only for leading purposes. Once loaded- leave it be and pour in chemistry and watch the clock and your own notes. Also chemistry can be reused several times as mine is still not depleted and times did not need to be increased after each 15ft use. Lots of bogus online from sellers of chemistry trying to make you dump perfectly good chemicals to buy more from them- to half-axx articles and descriptions etc.

Let me know which tank you have for sale and your price. I will gladly put it to use. I would consider parts/pieces or even damaged or broken items.

Dr Virago Pete (847) 201-1612

Illinois

The above picture shows Sony KCA-1 Umatic S adapter which encloses a small sized tape.

Wanted Sony KCA-1 U-matic adapter. Or other brand or model which I may not be aware of.

This adapter (the brown plastic C shaped item surrounding the tape) is a device which alows a full-sized U-matic VTR Video Tape player/recorder to use the smaller sized tapes from the Portapack Umatic recorders. The portable Umatic taoe systems were made smaller and lighter and are fully tape format compatible. But the tape cartridge itself was made smaller for the portapacks. Thus an adapter is required for playback or recording on a top-loading full sized Umatic machine.

A few terms

U-Matic and Umatic are two equal ways of spelling this.

The smaller sized Umatic tape cassette is referred to as Umatic S and also has different spellings U-MaticS Umatic-S etc

As part of my small video transfer business I transfer Umatic tapes which are home-made or in otherwords not hollywood productions. I typically transfer physician tapes, high school tapes, youth football/basket games etc. It is rare to find a homemade tape in high-band U-Matic which tend to be the hollywood productions.

I specialize in the older format Lo-band Umatic tapes and would lke to expand my ability to also read Umatic-S low band tapes. I currently only transfer full-size U-Matic tapes of Low-band (typically recorded on top loading big VTRs as found in schools and universities and physicians offices etc on the mid 1970s through 1980s.

This small C shaped adapter would be a welcome addition to my equipment as I can currently transfer almost every tape format ever made.

Dr Virago Pete (847) 201-1612

drviragopete@att.net

Illinois

Wanted "Natural Microsystems" Voicemail Card 

8-bit full length card for ISA early PC or Compaq PC or PC clone use.

The manufacturer's name is NMS for short.

Natural Microsystems.

I use one of these terrific cards to run my daily voicemail mesages and would like to find another spare in case something ever happens to it. I have the software already and know how to program it. The card and software is currently running a program I wrote which responds to telephone keypad touchtones.

It is called a Watson II 1200 or Watson II 2400 and some are labeled as VIS (Watson II VIS 2400 for example) The VIS signifies upgraded eprom chip which has some additional commands. I once a long time ago ordered the VIS chip from the MFG for mine and simply unplug the old eprom chip and plug in the VIS eprom chip and that made it a VIS model.

I would like to find any version of Watson II card which resembles the above picture. There may be slight differences depending on card version.

The 1200 or 2400 signifies 1200 baud modem or 2400 baud modem built-in.

I remember using my Watson II VIS 2400 to log into Bulletin Board Systems in the late 1980s and early 1990s- before the internet there was Fidonet accessible by BBS. Fidonet probably still exists today and was a great system- sponsored by people who had a PC in their home and left it running all day/night etc for others to log-in and access by modem. The messages and ads etc were passed on from one BBS to another making the rounds as it took days to weeks for the information to travel round the nation. The For Sale Echo was my favorite and bought and sold things online there- was text based and graphics could be uploaded/downloaded manually when a picture was needed. I once got free access to a BBS by being the first one to ientify a Nissan Z as the name of new car on the market back then. Whenever I see a Nissan Z I remember the BBS that I won free access to decades ago.

The modem portion is slow by todays standards (compared to 56k modem a 2400bps model is 2.4k speed) and unuseable. But the voicemail portion is top notch and a racecar by today's standards. Even though the modem is Hayes compatible and all 56k modems will negotiate a connection 1200, 2400, 14.4, 28k, 36k, 56k etc most current BBSs will not allow a 1200baud connection rendering it useless due to operator setting limits. Many older computers had slow modems and hobbyists of those other computers sometimes oeprate an old BBS to support their favorite vintage computer.

I use my Watson board and Compaq portable PC 4.77MHZ to support my Motorcycle parts and services and also my Santa hotline which is popular during the holiday season. Yes that is my voice, and I do an excellent Santa impression. The card records in compressed audio and hardly uses any hard drive space. It was many years before MP3 audio and the record/playback quality is very good over the telephone line.

It is truly a wonderful card and would like to find another one in any condition.

Pete (847) 201-1612

Rank Cintel Telecine / Flying Spot Scanner Wanted

There were several models made from the 1970s 80s 90s 2000s 2010s etc. Mark series, Turbo Series, ADS, ADSII, Ursa Series, and many more. These are large machines with 2 takeup reels resembling reel-to-reel recorders. This is a film playback machine which outputs to video/audio and or data stream.

I have never used one but I keep my eye open on big-auction-site and online looking for a used machine. Nonworking or working one considered.

I have an interest in 35mm film-making and transferring cinema to DVD. I currently transfer camcorder tapes (MiniDV/8mm/Hi8/Digital8, home movies Reg8/Super8/16mm, and misc other formats of audio and video) as part of my tape and film transfer business.

I would like to get a Rank or Cintel brand flying spot scanner. I would also consider a different name brand and model (CCD or line sensor ok too)

I recently came across some references to Rank Cintel Model ADS and ADSII which are units I hadn't seen before. My understanding it is a CCD based telecine made after around 1982 approx.

I'm handy with restoring machines and would take on the challenge of fixing a machine for my own use. Even the most humble and basic of these machines would be appreciated. The model I have in mind is Rank Turbo II for the simple reason I have read it operates on standard 110V electricity. If I find a different model I would be very willing to install 220v power in my small film/video workshop.

Some names of these units Rank Mark I, Mark II, Turbo I, Turbo II, Turbo 3HD, Rank Mark III, Mark IIIb, Rank Mark IIIc, Rascal, Ursa,  Gold,  Diamond, Digiscan etc. All produce wonderful picture quality. There may be more models which I am not aware of. If you have one for sale or giveaway call me or send email. A non-working unit may just be in your way taking up space and you want to have it gone. I would like to find one. One of the main advantages is realtime picture and sound transfer.

I already have wonderful Super8/Regular8 scanning quality on my Kodak VP-1 flying spot scanner. I do not have any 35mm cinema film scanning ability currently. A Rank or Cintel would be a welcome addition to my video/film machines as I get several orders per week (boxfuls of tapes and films) currently and looking to expand my business by making an investment in additional equipment.

Maybe you have one at your school or business or in storage taking up space etc. I can put it to good use. Also if you have spare parts let me know what you have.

I sometimes see these Rank Cintel Machines with a big control panel and sometimes I see just the machine. I am not familar with its use and have never seen one demonstrated online in videos or even described. Some of these machiens have a panel off to the side or at the front of the machine- it is possible the machine would have simple pushbutton operation for play, rewind, fast forward and pause- that is only my hunch as I just have never seen any closeup pics or description.

I need a basic machine that is a Rank or Cintel any model which plays 35mm or 16mm would be fine working or not. Fixer upper or broken or good unit appreciated. Wanted any condition at all. Parts and pieces also wanted if you have spares of anything let me know.

There are several other makers of large telecine machines which resemble the Rank Cintel machines- what  mean by that is the two large reels and about the size of a refrigerator. Some used a digital camera or CCD assembly to scan the film as it went by.  Some used a small CRT to scan the image. Some used a video or digital camera to photograph the images either real-time or other speed. I'm open to what you have and I will consider it.

Other Mfgs of 35mm and 16mm Telecine machines (I wouldn't mind having any of these for my 35mm transfer needs and some also do 16mm and other film sizes/formats too)

1. Rank Cintel

2. Lasergraphics

3. ITK

4. Vario

5. Elmo

6. C Reality

7. Flashscan

8. Kodak Cineon (1993-1999 est)

9. BTS Bosch Philips FDL-90 or Quadra 1989-90s est year

10. Thomson

11. CTM Debrie

12. Baselight

13. Spirit / Grass Valley

14. Schmitzer

15. Bosch FDL-60 or other unit (FDL-60 A1, FDL-60B, FDL-60C etc ) 1979 est year

16. Oxberry

17. Imagica

18. Fernseh GMBH (vacuum tubes B&W) 16mm or 35mm

19. Arri

20. OCS

21. RTI

22. MWA

23. Hazeltine

24. Quantel

25. Sony Vialta  model FVST-1000 or other model (Est 2001)

26. Marconi model B3410 or other model (1984-1987 year est)

27. A bright red flat film desktop 35mm cinema film scanner to computer using a camera - saw it on Youtube but can't think of the name of it. Starts with a "K"?

28. Filmlight

29.  Many more I haven't heard of

(The above are not in any order.)

I am open to other machine brands and models any condition. I would like to add the abillity to transfer 35mm film and 16mm film (I can transfer 16mm film currently on a different machine)

Some businesses get new equipment and the old stuff has got to go. Let me know what you have.

Jump Scan, Hopping patch, ccd, linear, etc all make a wonderful picture quality. Tired of what you have? Let me know what you'd sell it for.

With all things there is a sweet spot where you get alot for your money- that is the basic model. Upgrades and "the grass is greener on the other side" gives you just a tad bit better but the cost is enormous. I'm looking for the basic machine which gives me 35mm capability. It doesn't have to be perfect to be wonderful. Some people trash a machine because the CRT in the Rank is "weak" or they feel the machine is Standard definition and they want to up grade to HD. I can put your SD machine to good use. Ancient machine is a-ok.

I'm even interested in it disassembled in boxes crates or whatever. I can put it back together.

Got a nonworking unit? I'm willling to tackle that project.

Dr Virago Pete (847) 201-1612

drviragopete@att.net

Illinois

Wanted Film Perforation Machine

The picture is an unknown model brand machine and is possibly homemade and one of a kind. I am interested in purchasing a 35mm film perforation machine or die set or contraption. (picture shows a very rusty machine but is restorable)

Some designs use a up/down reciprocating punch, some use turning dies (see pic with blue background) some are of other designs. I wish to use 35mm unperforated 100ft rolls as a cost savings but at present do not have a way to perforate it- So I have not purchased any unperforated bulk rolls.

Also interested in 8mm and 16mm and Super8 punch/die/machine/contraption for slitting and or punching film from scratch.

Let me know what you have

Bell & Howell film punch machine in 1908, Newman Sinclair film perforation machine, World War II improvised film punch machine, homebrew punches and dies. Something else not mentioned that you may have gathering dust or rusting?

Also wanted film slitter for any film size.

Update 9/24/11 I came across a reference to a device called an "Eastman Sprocketer" which perforated film for use in a camera. I would like to find this machine.

Dr Virago Pete

(847) 201-1612

Illinois

I am also interested in purchasing a film slitter for 8mm, 16mm and 35mm let mw know what you have.

Wanted Sony Walkman model WM-F65 (recorder pictured on the right)

(note WM-F10 is a player only but has many of the same parts and is pictured on the left)

I used to have one (WM-F65 recording walkman) in the late 80s approx 1988 and have sellers remorse for an item I once had. I would like to find one for use in my audio tape transfer business as it had very good sound quality. I have acquired the service manual for this model from big-auction-site as I may never find another one - I grabbed the used service manual from big-auction -site. I am still looking for this Walkman in any condition.

Here is what I remember about it

1. Takes 2 A batteries

2. Dolby B noise reduction on playback only

3. FM stereo with distant and local switch

4. Single side tape playback (non autoreverse)

5. Flip up cassette door and tape slides into cassette door - then close door

6. Features flat Sony motor and very microminiature mechanism

7. FM stereo red LED lights when FM stereo station tuned in.

8. Stereo Microphone jack (I made my own microphone back then with 2ea Radio Shack microphone elements and a stereo 3.5mm jack purchased at radio shack. Soldered it together using 3 conductor wire about 1-1/2inch length to make a nice recording mic.

9. Stereo headphone jack

10. Had a nice solid feel to the unit

11. Rotary dial tuning - the white station marker moves as you turn the dial.

12. Battery life on Nickel Cadmium rechargeable batteries was a few hours

13. Microphone would pickup tape mechanism noise which was a consistent rrrrrrr sound and it helped to have the microphone with a longer wire so it would not pickup the rrrrr sound as it got the microphone elements away from the body. The wire would act as a damper for vibrations too.

14. I once soldered the wires leading up to the playback/recording head as the wire broke from flexing. This caused only one side of the stereo playback to function. By soldering back on the broken wire- the stereo sound was restored.

15 I traded it for an Intel Inboard386 board to convert my Clone 286-12Mhz to a 386 to be able to run Windows 3.1 back then as Windows 3.1 required a 386 processor and the 286 didn't have a co-processor. The DOS drivers loaded at startup and then it was a true 386 machine. I regret eventually selling both items as they are both rare. Both were sold on Fidonet For Sale echo back in the early 90s. Maybe you're selling me back the very same unit I once had.

16. The number one reason to own this wonderful Sony Walkman WM-F65 is that it is a recording unit. It records to cassette tape while most Walkmans just played tapes (there were quite a few recording units made by Sony but a much higher qty of player only units were sold). The side of the unit said "cassette . corder" and "Recording" in red letters. Recording walkmans usually have a printed word which states "recording" or "corder" or some other indication that it records. Also on the side of the unit is the silver colored diagonal button which has a red paint on the record button. Players didn't have a recording button. Got a walkman that records? Check to make sure it has a recording button. I only want this unit which records. Partially for nostalgic reasons but also because it was a very well made unit and had very good sound quality.

17. Scratches were grey because the plastic was grey. It was factory painted a metallic dark grey with sparkles or glitter- similar to how car paint glitters. Wear to the paint was easy to do as handling it and normal use wears away the thin glitter paint leaving the underlying dark grey plastic. There are areas where the wearing away of the paint is more prone - corners, and where your thumbs are when you carry it.

18. I bought mine (wish I still had it) at Unclaimed Baggage in Scottsburg, AL zipcode 35768  which is a unique store where it is mostly clothes and used luggage and some housewares. There was (20+years ago now) a long glass case which contained jewelry, cameras, video equipment, laptops, Walkmans, and I remember even an Army night vision monocular attached to a helmet- in that glass case. I bought my Walkman there. The store buys airport luggage by the pound - as I had been told. The luggage is unclaimed lost luggage and is (you guessed it) mostly clothes. Not too many people are going to carry big heavy items on the airplane with them. I suppose someone had night vision military gear in their luggage and didn't put their name on the luggage? There were lost rings and necklaces etc - all priced at current market value. (don't expect unrealistic low ball pricing) I heard alot about the store and looked forward to visiting- it wasn't what I expected. I did find one really really really good thing there. Almost everyone who told me about the place had wonderful stories about it. I think everyone found something there. Prices were at market value for the time. I don't remember what I paid for my Walkman back then. If you are going that way - stop there and look to see what they have. It is one of the unique places in USA and you'll find the one thing that makes you tell someone else to go there. (If you time your visit correctly you can also go to the "First of the month" at "The square" It has been a couple of decades so I forget what that means exactly- the first Saturday or other day of the month? Like a big flea market on a few block area called "the square" which only exists on that certain time of month for sellers with a permit.

19. FM/AM stereo is a misprint. It should state "AM/FM stereo" because the AM is mono audio as is typical of AM- the FM is stereo. AM stereo is unusual to find in a receiver and is called Seqam. This Walkman does not have seqam AM stereo.

Dr Virago Pete (847) 201-1612

drviragopete@att.net

Wanted Super8 and Regular 8 Film gate for Rank / Cintel machine (or other professional telecine)

Pictured on the right is the Combo Super8 and Regular8 film gate for Rank Cintel Ursa Diamond. If you have a film gate for sale for Rank Cintel or other profesional telecine like Bosch, or Fernseh etc too many very good companies to list let me know your price and send photos of the used film gate. As I expand my film/video transfer business, I'm looking for a telecine for 35mm transfer to DVD or other media (I do not currently have the ability to transfer 35mm film- but I transfer 90% all other tape/film types). I sometimes buy machines backwards for example - picking the software first and then choosing the machine that works with that software. Similarly- finding a Super8 and or Regular 8 film gate and then choosing the machine that works with it.

Got a S8 R8 film gate? I don't mind buying just the gate with or without the machine. The price needs to be reasonable. Maybe that is something you don't use in your business and could do without. A large part of my business comes from consumer formats of film and tape. I also transfer some types of professional tapes (1" type C and older reel to reel formats and DVC DV DVCAM etc in addition to minidv and Hi8/8mm/Digital8 etc- you name it - I have the machine to transfer most but not all formats ever made).

It would be nice to have a telecine for 35mm. My Supermatic VP-1 does an excellent job on Regular8 and Super8 and why I'm looking for a gate for a larger telecine- I don't know why. Just in case my machine ever fails. Also sometimes I just plain get swamped with orders. It would be nice to have another machine to multitask. My Supermatic VP-1 holds its own when compared to any Super8 demo I've seen and then some. Very top notch machine that Kodak Supermatic VP-1- love it. As small as a big full-size Betamax. Compare that to the telecines that fill up a room with consoles and refrigerator-size racks. But I still want one a big Telecine because it will do the 35mm cinema films.

I also hold the Rank and Cintel machines with high regard and would like to acquire a machine or other brand/model as there were many companies producing excellent commercial telecines for tv stations, universities and more.

Dr Virago Pete (847) 201-1612

Illinois, USA

Wanted Smartloader made by Lasergraphics

It is an attachment that goes on the front of a film recorder (Lasergraphics Mark III LFR). It allows approx 6-7 rolls of 35mm film to be film recorded automatically in sequence.

Sometimes referred to as an autoloader or auto loader.

Update 11/2011 I have purchase a Lasergraphics Smartloader and it arrived in almost working condition. I have begun to repair it. The column has a plastic "thing" lets just call it a rod with a slotted end but it an odd shape that comes down and winds and rewinds the 35mm cassettes. It is not coming down far enough. the rest of the machine works. Someone was in there before as I saw some disconnected wires which I reconnected and fan area was put back how it should go. Untinkering is what I am talking about- someone tinkered. I'm glad to have found one. It may be the last one in existence.

Dr Virago Pete (847) 201-1612

drviragopete@att.net

Wanted Polaroid Propalette 7000 or 8000 series flip open door

I own a complete model 7000 and a 99% complete model 8000 (missing front flip open door). I can definitely tell you that the front door is interchangeable between these two models as I've tried it. (7000 door fits on the 8000 unit)  If you have a flip open door for either model - I would like to buy it.

My propalette 7000 and 8000 are both beige in color and I've seen some black and some beige units. I would like to find a door any color.

I have used my 7000 and 8000 extensively and checked calibration and both are wonderful machines. I use them creating for 35mm calibration slides for use in high end software which autocolor corrects.

Please note that the 8000 series had a few models such as the 8035    8045     8067

the "35" stands for 35mm camera which it came with

the "45" stands for 4x5 camera which it came with

the "67" stands for 67 camera which it came with

The machine itself was the same 8000 unit in either black or beige. Some Propalettes had different versions of the eprom software loaded within the unit - can display the version on the LCD (model 7000 had lcd) or colordisplay (8000 had color display)

If I find a 7000 door I will be pleased to have it. As far as I can tell the only different between the 7000 beige door (plain with nothing written and no logo) and the 8000 series beige door is that the 8000 beige door had a small polaroid logo at the lower left. The door is important because it is a dust shield. Closing the door after use keeps dust out. I bought mine from big-auction-site and the price was inexpensive but missing the door. I have all of the software and drivers etc. Great machines.

Sometimes referred to as Pro Palette 7k or 8k (or mis-spelled as pro palate or pro pallate or propalate - there should be an e in the middle and a double t)

Dr Virago Pete

(847) 201-1612

drviragopete@att.net

I am updating this section to say I did find a flip open door by inquiring to a seller on big auction site who said he had a spare one to sell me. My Propalette Propalette 8000 now has a door and is complete. The door is from a 7000 so it is a exact same shade of beige but with no logo on lower left hand corner. No problem- I'm pleased to have a door. 12/2011

Wanted: Dick Smith Electronics ESR meter model MK II   K 7214  or model MK-II K-7214 designed by Bob Parker

(I would also consider a MK I Kit K 7204 as it is very similar)

This is a capacitor checker tester which was sold in kit form by Dick Smith Electronics and is now discontinued. I would like to find a kit either built or unbuilt. My understanding is there was a Mark I Mark II and Mark III.

My preference is the Mark II as I have watched several very good videos on Youtube on TV repair (in which this meter is used in the troubleshooting process)

See the following link which contains demo of ESR meter Dick Smith Electronics MK-II K 7214

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYSoDazI5tE

Another very good video from same author

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFSFK_muSVs&feature=relmfu

I am not affiliated with the above links. I have watched several of the videos from this author and all are done very well. If you like retro electronics and devices- you'll like watching the authors many videos. I like vintage electronics and machines and find this sort of thing interesting. I'm handy with electronics and people come to me regularly to repair electronics for them.

(ESR means Equivalent Series Resistance)

This device will help me when I'm checking vintage electronics as faulty capacitors often test good on a standard capacitance meter. The ESR meter measures resistance within the cpacitor while in-circuit. This eliminates or reduces the need to desolder the part before checking it. The concept is that bad capacitors have a higher than normal resistance as the fluid inside dries up. It is normal for a good capacitor to have 0 ohm resistance or very very low resistance. I look forward to finding one and putting it to good use in electronics troubleshooting.

Also wanted back issues of these magazines which show construction of the MKI and MKII ESR meters (MK1 and MK2)

April 2004 Silicon Chip magazine (shows MKII plans and construction)

August 1998 Elestronics Australia magazine (Shows MKI plans and construction)

Dr Virago Pete

(847) 201-1612

drviragopete@att.net

Com World CMD-1200 

Emerson EVC-1600 

Universal International Video Standards Converter Box Wanted

The above pictures are

1. Com World CMD-1200 (PAL/NTSC/SECAM to PAL/NTSC/SECAM excellent quality video output - full automatic input signal sensing)

2. Emerson EVC-1600 (PAL/NTSC/SECAM to PAL/NTSC excellent quality video output - full automatic input signal sensing)

I have one of each of these worldwide international video signal format converters. I use them as part of my camcorder tape transfer business. I would like to acquire more of these so I can do more international tape transfers simultaneously to DVD. I get boxfuls of tapes for transfer and having some extra converters would be helpful.

Both have TBC built-in and fine full detail picture quality- both much better than other units in my opinion. The better of the two is Com World due to outputs in any format including Secam. Otherwise they both have identical same video output details and resolution.

The boxes I already have allow me to convert any camcorder videotape from any country to any format of DVD. (VHS, VHS-C, MiniDV, 8mm/Hi8/Digital8, MicroDV, Betacam, and many more as I have quite a few worldwide multi-standard video players)

• NTSC 3.58 or 4.43 (USA, Canada, Mexico and Japan)
• PAL (For PAL B/G, D/K, I - Secam D/K, B/G, K1 Countries)
• Pal M or Pal N (for Argentina, Brazil and other parts of South America)
• Secam (Input only for Emerson EVC-1600) (Input/Output for Com World CMD-1200)
  

drviragopete@att.net

The above pictures show a Stratasys Dimension SHDM1000 machine stripped for the printhead and circuitboard in order to receive a discount from Stratasys on a more current model. This renders the machine useless to a future buyer of this machine. This is not my machine- I am looking to buy a machine and parts and spare parts- any model considered.

Stratasys FDM 2000 model SH200001 is shown above.The outer appearance of the model 2000 and model 3000 is very similar.

Stratasys Genisys XS picturted above. There were some units called Genisys also which looked similar in style . The thin flat stacked "wafers" of "durable polyester" plastic or other plastic in the loading magazine (material was loaded by opening the area at the top handle cover which I believe flips up). I wonder if someone has some of this material in their inventory?

Wanted Printhead and CPU board for Stratasys DImension SHDM-1000 or BST-768 or Genisys or Prodigy or 2000 or 3000 or other model.

Parts Wanted:

I would like to find a spare printhead and a spare CPU board as there are many machines disabled through this "upgrading process" I would consider buying a used printhead in working or non-working condition.

Stratasys 3d Printer Wanted

I would like to find a machine for sale whether it is stripped of these parts or not. If you have a different Stratasys machine for sale let me know as I have no 3d printer at this time. Sometimes I buy things backwards - finding a set of printheads before buying a stripped machine is a backwards approach. If you have software or parts or materials for sale for these machines let me know.

Dimension BST 768 .......................................(variations BST768 BST-768)

Dimension 1200 ....(Variations BST1200 BST-1200 BST1200es BST-1200es SST Elite)

Dimension SHDM 200001 .......................(Variations SHDM20001 SHDM-20001)

FDM 2000 ..............................................(Variations FDM-2000 FDM2000)

FDM 3000 ..............................................(Variations FDM-3000 FDM3000)

Genisys   .........................(Variations Genisis Genesis XS or other model)

Prodigy ........................................................(Variation Prodigy plus)

others

Wanted

Print head, circuit boards, build material, cartridge, dongle, wafer, plastic, abs, or other consumable items, or whole machine or stripped machine, etc. Any condition.

Dr Virago Pete (847) 201-1612

Illinois, USA

3D Systems Thermojet (spare parts, books, software, wax wanted)

I have just recently purchased a used/fixer upper 3D Systems brand 3D Printer called a Thermojet. It is a wax printer which works similar to an inkjet printer but deposits special proprietary wax made just for this printer- hobby store wax should not be used. My machine has quite a bit of wax just spattered throughout the inside. I have cleaned a substantial number of parts and pieces from this wax- with the use of Acetone purchased from a local home improvement store. I have taken my time cleaning a little at a time outdoors. The cleaning up goes slowly as I don't want to overdo it. I wonder if the system (when working) gets pressurized and there may be a hose leak on mine somewhere. Or it may be as simple as the previous owner loading the wax bottle crooked causing a poor seal.

I am looking for extra parts and pieces you may have like

1. Extra printhead

2. Wax bottles

3. Instruction manuals

4. Service Manuals

5. Software

6. Circuit boards, parts, pieces

My big black printhead cover was full of wax and it clogged all of the airholes. I spent several hours cleaning it and looks perfect now. It has a textured black glossy finish- acetone did not affect the black finish which I suspect may be powdercoating but I may be wrong. I was cautious about using acetone as I felt it might damage the black surface but it did not. I was also cautious about it eating away circuitboard or copper traces or damaging electronic parts- I carefully and quickly cleaned and see no damage. The areas of circuitboards and IC chips I cleaned look perfect and unharmed.

If you have parts/pieces/wax/books/software for sale/trade etc or experience with this machine I would like to hear your insights etc.

This machine's resolution (for the x,y,z axes they each have their own resolution/dpi  

1" divided by 300dpi = .0333" 

1" divided by 400dpi = .0025"

1" divided by 600dpi = .0016"

coupled with my 3d scanner's .002" resolution should be a real professional solution for puttting my inventions to real life (then lost wax casted into metal). Keep in mind the thickness of a average human hair is .002" That's amazing detail. I look forward to getting this machine up and running.

At this time, I attribute the wax mess to operator error by previous owner not machine fault from what I see so far. A certain amount of proficently is required in loading a wax bottle correctly and cleaning off wax spatterings so it doesn't build up. I don't see anything broken. I don't see any damaged hoses or any other parts broken.

From everything I researched online - not a single person had anything nasty to say about this printer. I think I found the very best 3d wax printer for my needs which is prototyping and lost wax casting.

Let me know if you have parts and/or supplies for it.

Let me know if you have books and software for it.

Let me know if you have/had issues with your Thermojet as we can compare solutions. Errors you ran into, how you removed wax, parts you replaced etc- I would like to know as it can help me understand this machine better.

Dr Virago Pete

Illinois, USA

drviragopete@att.net

(847) 201-1612

Wanted             Panasonic KX-P4420 Laser Partner            B&W Laser Printer 

I used to have one and gave it away. I wish I had not done that as I loved that old printer. It had 300dpi, Laserjet II emulation, Epson MX-80 emulation, parallel port, 8 pages per minute. Compatible with Windows 98 and below, compatible with DOS.

I would like to find a KX-P4420 in any condition. Parts pieces, memory board, etc working or not.

I have the technical ability to fix it.

I see some incorrect reference to this model number online. The correct model is KX-P4420. Sometimes I see it written as KXP4420 or KXP-4420

Dr Virago Pete (847) 201-1612

drviragopete@att.net

Illinois, USA